Federal Rock A Hard Place

Since the late 1980s, these bolts have also offended environmental groups. Critics complain that climbers flock to established routes, trampling vegetation and leaving chalk marks on the mountain (chalk is used for a better grip). Rock jocks who won’t leave so much as a PowerBar wrapper on the trail are incensed at the notion that they might not be conservationally correct. Fixed anchors are essential for safe climbing and descent, they say; to outlaw bolts in some places is to outlaw climbing. Grazing, mining and air strips are allowed in some wilderness areas – and bolts are a menace?

Both the Interior Department and the U.S. Forest Service are currently debating bans on fixed anchors. Meanwhile, former enemies such as The Wilderness Society and the Access Fund, a national climbing group, are seeking common ground. Many climbers agree that power drills should be banned in national parks, and some wilderness advocates say the judicious use of fixed anchors is OK. As for the mountains, and whether they really are offended by modern climbers, we may never know.

title: “Federal Rock A Hard Place” ShowToc: true date: “2022-12-12” author: “Dennis Breen”

Since the late 1980s, these bolts have also offended environmental groups. Critics complain that climbers flock to established routes, trampling vegetation and leaving chalk marks on the mountain (chalk is used for a better grip). Rock jocks who won’t leave so much as a PowerBar wrapper on the trail are incensed at the notion that they might not be conservationally correct. Fixed anchors are essential for safe climbing and descent, they say; to outlaw bolts in some places is to outlaw climbing. Grazing, mining and air strips are allowed in some wilderness areas – and bolts are a menace?

Both the Interior Department and the U.S. Forest Service are currently debating bans on fixed anchors. Meanwhile, former enemies such as The Wilderness Society and the Access Fund, a national climbing group, are seeking common ground. Many climbers agree that power drills should be banned in national parks, and some wilderness advocates say the judicious use of fixed anchors is OK. As for the mountains, and whether they really are offended by modern climbers, we may never know.